Kitchen Staff at Annapurna Basecamp

In a mountaineering expedition, climbers are the center of attention and get all the accolades, but there are many others working behind the scenes who make such ventures possible. Neither do we read about them in expedition reports, nor do we see their pictures on magazine covers. Though their services are rarely acknowledged, they are … Read more

Imtiyaz And The Secret Of Shimshal

“Imtiyaz was one class ahead of me in school. We liked each other a lot. We were distant relatives, so we convinced our families and got married in 1998. We were so happy together. He was such a soft-spoken man. Everyone in Shimshal loved him. He always helped others.” Imtiyaz’s wife, Zeenat, couldn’t speak further. … Read more

Saad Munawar

“If you love mountains, you cannot ignore the hardships of people living in the mountains.” These are the words by Saad Munawar (Saad Munawar – The Mountain Writer), who is a mountaineer and a writer from Islamabad. He is the author of two books. In 2019, he and Qudrat Ali made a world record by … Read more

A Night In A Kyrgyz Yurt

Cycling the Pamir Highway in Tajikistan as I descended from a 4000-meter pass, I spotted a Kyrgyz yurt on the right side of the road. Its colour and shape stood out in the barren landscape. I immediately pulled the brakes and asked a man getting out of the yurt if I could stay inside for … Read more

Happy Birthday Tajikistan

Dear Tajikistan, Back in 2015, when I was cycling from Germany to Pakistan, you were the first country where I experienced pure wilderness. In your grand landscape, I felt so vulnerable. But, as I struggled to survive each day, you freed me from myself. In awe of your grandeur, I lost my ego. Your majesty … Read more

International Day of the World’s Indigenous Peoples

Today is the International Day of the World’s Indigenous Peoples! When the European colonizers arrived in the Americas, the indigenous population was diminished by 80–90% within the first few centuries mainly due to epidemic diseases the new settlers had brought with them. The colonizers destroyed indigenous empires and butchered natives to capture gold and land. … Read more

A Letter To Bolivia

Dear Bolivia, You were my third country on the way to Alaska! I remember you for your vast landscape. Your high plateau reminds me of another country in Central Asia. For me, you will aways be the Tajikistan of South America. Your grand vistas are from another planet. The eyes are too small to capture … Read more

Part 4—Peru Independence Day 28 July.

It was late morning. Somewhere in the Highlands of Peru, the sun had just emerged from the fog. I was huffing and puffing on a steep uphill when a voice hit my ears, “Hola, amigo! (Hello, friend!)” I turned around and saw a woman, carrying a white chicken in her hands and baby wrapped in … Read more

A Letter To Peru

Dear Peru! you were my 4th country between Argentina and Alaska. Today, when people ask me, “what is your favourite country from the entire trip?” I struggle to name a country, but in my head, I see vivid images of your majestic mountains touching skies and the road twisting and looping in them. It was … Read more

Dil Wala

“Sh“ince I was a child, I loved driving a donkey cart. I got the feeling of flying from it. My elders were also in this profession. I have been working in this street in Sadar, Karachi for the past 25 years. I carry cement, machinery, furniture, heavy equipment, anything you name it,” Yousuf said whom … Read more

Melon Seller

“Garma lena hai bhai? 80 rupay kilo hey! (Do you want to buy sweet melons, brother? They are 80 Rupees/kilo!)” I turn left and see Shafiq smiling at me. His cart is full of yellow ripe melons that are shining in the soft evening light. “How is lockdown going?” I ask him. “Bhai, na poocho … Read more

Witnessing an Interfaith LGBTQ Engagement

“Ricardo knows that my Spanish isn’t good, but I don’t need to say a lot. All I want to say is that I love you with all my heart and that I will always love you!” says Johnny. “Johnny, the love I feel for you is endless,“ replies Ricardo after a pause. Johnny is from … Read more