Hunza River snakes through a broad valley surrounded by layers and layers of mountains, the tallest of them being Rakaposhi at 7788 m laden with snow. The afternoon sun rays cut through the peaks as if someone has held a giant prism in the sky. When you stand at a higher viewpoint, the poplar trees … Read more
In 2002, I got admission at a university in Germany and sat on the PIA flight from Islamabad to Frankfurt. The plane took off, and after crossing Iran was cruising at 40,000 feet altitude somewhere above Turkey when looking through the plane window, I was mesmerised by the vastness and the landscape below. Rivers appeared … Read more
Dear Mom, it’s been exactly nine years since you left. When I was little, you would bathe me, dress me in blue Shalwar Kameez, and add Kajal in my eyes as we sat in the winter sun on our roof where I always fell asleep in your lap. How before every bite of roti you … Read more
There is a knock outside. I peek through the door. Naeem Khan is standing there with a glass cup and a glass tray in his hands. A bunch of boxes tied together lay on the ground. “I am wandering from one street to another since morning, carrying this load of 50 kilos. I have been … Read more
A Letter to Pakistan on Independence Day 14 August Dear Pakistan, My story begins with you even before I was born. Mum always used to tell me that when she was pregnant, there was one Pakistani patriotic song “Har Ghari Tayyar Kamran Hain Hum” that would often play on PTV. While listening to it, she … Read more
During my cycling trip from Argentina to Alaska, I met French cyclists Julien & Fabio on the road. They became very good friends. We cycled on and off together for about two months in Patagonia. I saw them again in Cusco, Peru and together we got to celebrate the Independence Day of Pakistan on 14th … Read more
Part 1 of Pakistan Independence Day on 14 August! Awakened by a dream, I realize that I have been sleeping for too long. I am in Tashkurghan, China for the past couple of days and have been doing nothing but resting. I’ve cycled 9226 km from Germany, and there is only 120 km left to … Read more
It is Eid al-Adha today. Muslims around the world would be sacrificing animals today. In Pakistan alone, 10 million animals are slaughtered on the occasion of Eid. It’s my first big Eid in Pakistan after 5 years. But this time it’s different because I no longer consume meat. I turned vegetarian over three and a … Read more
Today is July 21. I turn 43! Sitting by the Minor Canal in Layyah as I dip my feet in the water, the arrow of time suddenly stops and then starts flying in the reverse direction. I am only six years old and spinning a tricycle along this canal as if trying to break the … Read more
In Layyah, the doorbell rings at our house. Outside, a child clings to his mother’s finger and stares at me with big eyes. His mom Shamim Akhtar is here with her daughter and a little son. My sister had given free ration and money to this family a while ago and also told me about … Read more
“Sh“ince I was a child, I loved driving a donkey cart. I got the feeling of flying from it. My elders were also in this profession. I have been working in this street in Sadar, Karachi for the past 25 years. I carry cement, machinery, furniture, heavy equipment, anything you name it,” Yousuf said whom … Read more
They say the mother earth is healing because of COVID-19—less air pollution, the better ozone layer, cleaner rivers, and less trash. All very good news. Except there are some whose living depends on trash! Meet Faiz Ullah Ishaqzai (left) and Sardar Wali Ishaqzai (right) who are twin brothers of age 17. They are from Quetta, … Read more
12 April 2020. Lockdown: Day 22 in Karachi, Pakistan. On normal days, Empress Market is one of the busiest places in Karachi. Today, it is deserted. Despite the lockdown, some women still take the risk to come here every day with the hope to make a living by selling dry fruit. Every daily wager worker … Read more
“Garma lena hai bhai? 80 rupay kilo hey! (Do you want to buy sweet melons, brother? They are 80 Rupees/kilo!)” I turn left and see Shafiq smiling at me. His cart is full of yellow ripe melons that are shining in the soft evening light. “How is lockdown going?” I ask him. “Bhai, na poocho … Read more
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